Bogota Day Trippin' #3: Aguas Termales (Choachi)

It is the final day before Christmas break ends so that means - one last day trip!

The location of choice today is Aguas Termales Santa Monica near Choachi. And, we all know what this means - half the fun is getting there!

Here we go:

1. Take the Trans: Yes, we hopped on our favorite mass transit to head downtown to find the bus station.

2. When in Doubt, Just Ask: While downtown is familiar, the bus station address was not. We asked new fewer than 3 groups of police and all very generously assisted (I cannot deny that being a 6 feet tall gringa who speaks Spanish has its benefits.)



3. So Close, Yet So Far: After 30 minutes of wandering, we realized that we should have taken the Trans to the Tercer Milenio stop which is only 2 blocks from the bus station (past the police station)!

4. People on the Bus Go Round Round Round: Perfect timing, we immediately boarded a little white van...along with about 15 other people and started our mountain climb to Choachi.

5. Bolsita - a Distress Cry: Yes, the twists and turns are not for everyone and specifically not for the 10 year old boy who lost his cookies 20 minutes into the trip. The driver-supplied plastic bag didn't arrive in time so our ride was filled with the essence of human mouth excretion (as was the floor.) Oh well, only 30 more minutes to go.


6. Choachi - a true gem: This sleepy little mountain town was in the midst of its annual festival and it was great to see all the people in the street. We quickly hopped on to another bus to take us the final leg of our journey.

7. We Arrived - Shower Caps, Anyone? The promise land finally greeted us with a warm welcome (by a friendly Colombian woman who boldly inquired if I had found my Colombian yet...she probably has a son lurking in the shadows:)...and blue shower caps. That's right, anyone with any hair does not get in these pools without covering the head. We are a sanitary, and rather stylish crew!



8. Hot Water, Hot Tubs, and a Lot of People: Yes, a holiday probably isn't the best day to visit the Aguas...though I think it gave us the full experience. Us and about 500 Colombians enjoyed the approximately 10 pools...ah, what an oddly relaxing day.

Ah, so as I look forward to the office tomorrow, it is with a smile that I remember the many memories of the last few days. For a few dollars and a few bus transfers, it is amazing the unique sights, sounds, and people you can see in and around Bogota!

Bogota Day Trippin' #2: Parque Chicaque

Have public transport, will travel!

At least, I have adopted this statement as my new motto. The combination of Bogota's taxis, Transmileno, Busetas, and Colectivos maybe be perfect but it sure works for me. So, continuing on my extended Christmas vacation, I took the opportunity to find Parque Chicaque. Ironically, I don't think this website was posted prior to my departure...it would have been extremely helpful!

Early on a Saturday morning, I ventured to the south of Bogota to find the town of Soachi, which I understood was the gateway to this amazing cloud forest. As half the fun is getting there, I think you might enjoy my adventures:

1. Take the Transmilenio: I took the Trans to Portal del Sur. From there, I hoped on an Alimentador- ensuring to ask the bus driver to advise when we reached Soachi.

2. Arrival in Soachi: About 5 minutes later, we arrived in Soachi (which has now become engulfed in Bogota and seems another bump on the freeway). Hmmm, the path seemed unclear to me, so I took the next logical course of action....

3. Time for Coffee Talk: I went to the friendliest looking locale, ordered a cafe con leche, and asked directions. 20 minutes, 10 puzzled Colombians, and a handwritten note, I at least knew the direction I wanted to go. I wanted to go toward Meseta.

4. Just Keep on Asking: I generously thanked my new friends and headed out to the freeway to try my luck with the buses. After flagging down about 5, one finally understood where I wanted to go and told me to get on.

5. Time to Transfer: About 15 minutes down the autopista, they dropped me at El Puente which is the intersection right after the gas station Guayasa. I hopped on the little van which seemed to just be awaiting my arrival.

6. Entering the Entrance: Another 15 minutes passed and they let me out in front of an ominous looking gate that said Parque Chicaque. I had arrived! (Of course, I still had about a 3 kilometer hike to the actual park.


7. Nothing Like Hitching a Ride: A continued my journey with a renewed sense of direction as I was engulfed in the freshness of the space. . . and maybe feeling a little overwhelmed by the solitariness of it all. A car finally passed to ask me if they were headed the correct direction...because I am sure that I look local! The kind couple took pity on my and invited me to join them in the car for the journey.

8. We Arrived! Another 15 minutes later and we entered the official gates and were immediately taken over with the fog of the cloud forest...from that point it just kept getting better!


I hiked about 3 hours climbing hills, going down slopes, and finding the waterfall. It was an amazing day surrounded by natural beauty and also engulfed with true Colombian hospitality. People were so friendly and very curious when they discovered I was out and about on an independent adventure. In fact, I meet a great couple on the way out who were not only great walking buddies (yes, we had to walk the entire way out) but also helped find my way back to the Transmilenio. Another excellent day trip around Bogota!

Bogota Day Trippin': Lago Guatavita

The new year means times for new adventures! The first stop: Lago Guatavita .

After some brief cross-referencing of my travel book and the internet the previous night, I felt ready to make my journey to the outskirts of Bogota for this exciting adventure. And, since we all know that half the fun is getting there, here is how the adventure unfolded:
1. Transmilenio: Hoped on this innovative form of transport to Portal Norte.

2. Transfer to City Connector: After a few brief conversations with the transport staff, I navigated to the city bus and continued on my path north...I graciously gave up my seat to a visually impaired man which was rewarded by numerous uncomfortable looks by other passengers who hadn't been so generous. Curious, very curious?


3. Arrival in Guatavita> I arrived in town...an interesting locale that had actually been rebuilt after it was decided to flood the area to create a reservoir. The new town (slightly moved to the side) is a quaint version of what had been.

4. Hitching a Ride:So, the entrance to the mountain hike is about 10 km from town...yeah, we'll need some transport for this trip. I made some instant friends with a family visiting from Florida and Venezuela and we caught a collectivo to the park entrance.

5. Climb Every Mountain Our group started the trek up the mountain to view the lake...enjoying our guide sharing the indigenous history of the area (and the reenactments by the little boy in the group.)

Of course, once we reached the top, the trek back was much easier...because our vehicles were waiting:) We made our way back into town and after a quick trip to the lake, it was back to Bogota. All in all, a great way to kick off my resolution of more day trips in 2009!

You Gotta Have Faith - Along with 1,000s Others!

If I would have been any closer to the altar, they would have asked me to co-celebrate the mass.... At least, that was the main thought running through my head this Sunday morning, December 14.

Our friend Fr. Tom McCluskey (you may remember him from previous posts) invited us to attend Sunday mass with him at one of the Redemptorist. And, by mass, I should quality that by saying it felt like we walked into a rock concert! It is all due to the monthly celebration of the Miracle of Buga which also occurs on the 14th.

The Setting: A local parish that quadruples in size on the 14th with pilgrams arriving from around the country. As a mass occurs every 90 minutes, there is a constant line of people outside eager to get in...even after they have removed all of the pews!

The Feeling: Unbelievable! There is an energy in the crowd that only true faith can generate. Everyone is just so excited to be present and to share with one another.


The Hospitality: Once again, Colombian hospitality rings true and we are not only welcomed with open arms...we are sat directly to the right of the altar (right between the massive paper mache nativity scene and the donation of children's christmas gifts). I am sure that the three gringos were barely noticed:)

The Emergency Personal: What rock concert, I mean Eucharistic celebration, would be complete without EMTs? Yes, no fewer than five people fainted during this unique faith journey and many crossed our path as they were passed to the front of the crowd to be excited through the side chapel.


The Most Memorable Moment: Just when we thought it couldn't get any better...the priest actually invites a woman and her child to take his sit during the service. God Bless him! It didn't even seem strange at the time...it was just a natural progression of the day. (And, of course, we beamed with pride to hear Fr. Tom read the gospel in Spanish - bien hecho!)



While this experience may have been a far cry from Assumption Parish in Callaway, MN, I do have to give my parents props for giving me a solid introduction into my Catholic faith. I mean, I really think that, if the need should have arisen, I could have just jumped in and provided whatever assisted was needed to ensure that this mass was a complete celebration.

The Fruiting - Delicious Highlights of Colombia

Saborrrrrr!

Yes, it's time to introduce you to the true flavor of Colombia: the fruits! The fruit here is unbelievable...and quite unforgettable. I admit that there are varieties that I have never experienced. Here are just a few that I have enjoyed:

Que Maravilla es la Granadilla!
The granadilla is the ugliest fruit that you will instantly love. As you peel away the eggshell exterior, you are exposed to this alienesque glob of seeds encased in a gelatinous substance (is your mouth watering yet?!). The best way to eat it is to suck down this sweet glob in one fail swoop. Its sweetness just slides down the throat and awaits another.






Lulo Juice - Delicious!
The lulo creates the ultimate juice experience. While not recommended eating directly, this sweet nector creates an exquisite beverage that goes well with breakfast, lunch, or dinner. I am amazed how this orange gem becomes a green liquid when turned into juice. It is something you don't want to miss on your next visit!


Mazorca en la Calle!
Ok, while corn is technically not a fruit, how could this corn-fed farm girl miss the opportunity to highlight such a delicious treat. I have to admit that one of my indulgences here is a piece of grilled corn on the street...prepared with the delicate touch that only an open-fire grill and a piece of cardboard fanning the flame could produce. Add a touch of butter and salt and - perfecto!
I mean could that satisfied face provide any better testimony.

Now, that your mouths are watering, here are a list of other delicacies I suggest you check out.

Buen Provecho!

It's Beginning to Look A Lot Like Christmas...

'Tis the Season...for lights, food, and general revelry. And Bogota is not shy in expressings its Christmas spirit. I mean, we have been about 2 months in preparation for this special day: Feast of the Immaculate Conception.

This Catholic feast day is celebrated through out the country with the lighting of candles (to light the way for the Holy Family) as well as to mark the official lighting of the Christmas lights throughout the county.

This year, Bogota's theme is The Seasons. In four parts of the city, we experienced the light interpretations of:
Summer in Parque Virrey








Spring en Usaquen








Winter en Plaza Simon Bolivar








And Fall in the south...sorry, I missed that part of the city but you can just imagine how spectacular it looked.

Of course, the lights didn't stop in these four destinations. We had some great displays throughout the city. Including:

Parque 93-brought to you by Bavaria beer company with a special highlight on barley and the local farm producers!

Turkeypalooza 2008: Take 4 (the big finale)

The day has arrived. . . 3 days late in perfect Colombian style! It was a fabulous event that truly was an opportunity to give thanks for our family (those that are related by blood and those that are connected through experience). Here is how the delightful day unfolded:


8:30 AM Jump out of bed
8:45 AM Off to run in the Ciclovia
10:00 AM Time to cook
10:15 AM Just realized that I have no electricity. . . and an electric stove. Hmmmm
10:30 AM Still no power. Starting to think of other options (but I did find a crockpot!)
11:00 AM The moment of truth - turkey needs to start cooking. I'll cut vegetables and grease down the bird to calm my nerves.
11:15 AM Yeah! Power returns. Bird in the oven. Salsa tunes playing.
11:45 AM Stuffing in the crockpot. Chopping took a long time! (and no, I haven't showered yet)
12:00 PM Reading about making gravy. . . oh, Ben Friedman wants to chat online and Cristina Ramos as well. Oh, prepping for T-Day is fun.
12:30 PM Laura and David arrive with potatoes! (and I still need to shower)
1:00 PM Ok, already, I'll take a shower...let's give thanks for that!
1:30 PM Abby and Laura return to Olimpica (because we love it) and we need juice
2:00 PM Tom and Carol have arrived. Yeah!
2:30 PM Time to baste the bird. She looks lovely!
3:00 PM Time to set the table. Prepare the snacks. And open the wine!
3:30 PM Gravy-making time . . . this activity definitely calls for more wine!
4:00 PM Sylvia, Imani, Amy, Eduardo arrive! (Along with the secretly acquired cranberries!)
4:30 PM Time to carve the bird. Enter Eduardo and Carol (Abby is still working on the gravy.)
4:45 PM Tom leads us in grace.
4:50 PM Dinner is served. Of course, our Colombian guests eat first.
5:50 PM Time for seconds, and thirds, and fourths.
6:15 PM Here comes the tres leches (Angie, be jealous:) and cookies. . . and conversation regarding the difference in family relations between Colombians and Americans. Good times.
7:15 PM We roll ourselves from our chairs and start the clean up process. Which also includes slowly picking off every remainder of meat off the bone and either consuming it on the spot or wrapping it up for leftovers. Hmmmmmm!
8:30 PM As the wine continues to flow, we continue to chat, and the kitchen seems to have cleaned itself.


All and all, it was a fabulous holiday made even better with the presence of our Colombian family. We may only share 3 months together but it is a lifetime of experience and for that I am truly thankful!

Now, it is time to let the tryptophan take full effect. Sweet Dreams!